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| 1) Where did you find out about this breeder? Responsible breeders usually have a waiting list of puppy buyers.
They usually don't find it necessary to advertise in newspapers or with a sign out in the front yard. 2) Do both parents (the sire and dam) have a hip clearance from the OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals). PennHip or Wind-Morgan? Ask to see the certificates. "My vet okayed the x-ray" is not a valid clearance. Make sure both parents are at least 2 years old. Final hip clearances cannot be obtained before that age. 3) Do both parents have Chrondodysplasia (CHD) certificates. These are issued by the Alaskan Malamute Club of America after the probability of this disfiguring condition is evaluated. 4) Do both parents have current eye clearances from an Ophthalmologist or CERF certificate (Canine Eye Registry)? This must be re-done every year. Ask to see the certificates. Malamutes suffer from genetic eye diseases such as juvenile cataracts, day blindness, and progressive retinal atrophy. 5) Do both parents have clearances for hypothyroidism and hyperthyroidism? These are some of the other problems Malamutes can have and some breeders are now checking for. 6) How often is the dam bred? If it is every heat cycle, THIS IS TOO OFTEN, and may indicate that profit is the primary motive for the breeding. 7) Do all four grandparents, better yet also the great grandparents, siblings of the parents and any other puppies that they may have produced have these clearances? A responsible breeder will keep track of these statistics and honestly discuss any problems that have occurred in the lines and what has been done to prevent them from occurring. 8) Is the breeder willing to provide you with references and telephone numbers of other people who have purchased puppies from them? 9) Will the puppy have a limited registration with a mandatory spay/neuter contract? A breeder who cares enough about the breed to insist on these is likely to be a responsible breeder. 10) On what basis was the sire chosen? If the answer is "because he lives right down the street" or "because he is really sweet", it may be that sufficient thought was not put into the breeding. 11) WILL THE BREEDER TAKE THE DOG BACK AT ANY TIME, FOR ANY REASON, IF YOU CANNOT KEEP IT?! This is the hallmark of responsible breeding (and the quickest way to make rescue obsolete). 12) Is there a written guarantee against congenital health or temperament problems, that does not require you to return your puppy or euthanize it? 13) Will the breeder be available to answer any questions you might have for the life of the dog? Is this someone you would feel comfortable asking any type of question? 14) Is the breeder knowledgeable about the breed? Does the breeder share the less desirable aspects of the breed?, i.e. excessive shedding, howling, independent thinkers. A responsible breeder will tell you the good as well as the bad. Does he/she make suggestions on books, literature, or websites that can help you understand the breed and make an informed decision? Is he/she involved in competition with their dogs (field, obedience, or confirmation)? 15) Are there a majority of titled dogs (the initials: CH, OTCH, CD, ROM, BIS, BISS, CGC, TT, WPD, WWPD, ... before or after the names) in the first two generations? The term champion lines means nothing if those tittles are back three or more generations or there is only one or two in the whole pedigree. 16) Are the puppy's sire and dam available for you to meet? If the sire is unavailable can you call his owners or people who have the puppies to ask about temperament or health problems? 17) Have the puppies been raised in the home - not in a kennel, barn or the back yard? 18) Is the breeder knowledgeable about raising puppies, critical neonatal periods, proper socialization techniques? Puppies that are raised without high exposure to gentle handling, human contact and a wide variety of noises and experiences OR are removed from their dam or litter mates before at least 7 weeks, may exhibit a wide variety of behavioral problems! 19) Does the breeder provide you with a 3-5 generation pedigree, a contract to sign, copies of all clearances and a guarantee, health records and material to help with feeding, training and housebreaking? 20) Have the puppies temperaments been evaluated and can the breeder guide you to the puppy that will best suit your lifestyle? A very shy puppy will not do well in a noisy household with small children, just as a very dominant puppy won't flourish in a sedate, senior citizen household. A caring breeder will know the puppies and be able to show you how to test them so that good matches can be made. 21) Do the puppies seem healthy, with no discharge from eyes or nose, no loose stools, no foul smelling ears? Are their coats soft, full and clean? Do they have plenty of energy when awake yet calm down easily when gently stroked? 22) Do the puppies have their first shots and have they been wormed and vet checked by the time they go home? 23) Does the breeder have only 1 or at the MOST 2 breeds of dogs and only 1 or 2 litters at a time? If there are many breeds of dogs in their kennels, the chances are the breeder cannot devote the time it takes to become really knowledgeable about any one breed. If there is more than one litter at a time it is very difficult to give the puppies the attention they need and may indicate that the primary purpose for breeding is profit, rather than a sincere desire to improve the breed. 24) Does the breeder belong to the Alaskan Malamute Club of America (AMCA) or a local All-Breed Club? Such clubs have a code of ethics that the breeder agrees to although membership does not necessarily guarantee a reputable breeder. 25) Do you feel comfortable with this person, after all you will be entering into a decade long relationship? Are you feeling pressured or intimidated in any way? If so, keep looking! |